Bombay for first-timers
Bombay (now called Mumbai), is India's largest city with some 20 million folks calling it home. It is India's financial, commercial and entertainment capital. It is vivid, energetic, cosmopolitan, heady and overwhelming. I hope some of these tips help you navigate this city of dreams, this maximum city.

Geography

Mumbai is built on what were originally seven islands. For simplicities sake, we will look at Mumbai as made up of the City of Mumbai (popularly referred to as “south Bombay” or simply, “town”), and the western, eastern and central “suburbs”. Beware, ‘suburbs’ is a misleading term. South Bombay and the western suburbs, running along the Arabian Sea coast, is where most Bombayites live.

Two major arterial highways serve most of the traffic, the Western Expressway and the Eastern Expressway. The local train system, which carries some 7 million passengers daily, runs along the spine of the city. Traveling over the spine, from west to east or vice-versa can be time consuming.

Getting Around

Traffic in Mumbai is (mostly) predictable. Morning traffic goes north to south, with peak hours between 9–11am. Evening rush, from south to north, starts around 5:30 pm and begins to ease around 8:30 pm. There can be long traffic jams in the densely populated areas, such as parts of south Bombay, and central and northern areas of western suburbs (e.g. all of Andheri, or Goregaon). Going West-East, vice versa, can be very slow. So plan your travel carefully.

Use Google Maps to plan your travel time. Traffic in Bombay is a special beast. Do not be fooled by how far your destination is. Sometimes a short distance, of say 5 km, can take a ridiculous time. So when asking people about places, it is better to ask how long it will take you get there from your location, rather than how far it is. The traffic overlay in Google Maps is quite accurate for Bombay and comes in very handy for knowing when you’ll actually arrive at your destination. Occasionally Maps may miss out on construction activity. It is also good to know the local name of the area, roads and a landmark. Google Maps tends to display newer ‘official’ names, which most local drivers may not know. Best to ask a friend or the driver. 

  • The most convenient way to get around is taking taxi aggregators like Uber or OlaCabs. Install the mobile apps.
  • It is quicker and cheaper to take the ubiquitous black and yellow auto-rickshaws/tuk-tuks (Called rickshaw or rick) for short hops (less than 5km). If you want to avoid the pollution, don’t get stuck in one during the rush hours. Note: Rickshaws are not allowed in South Bombay. 
  • In South Bombay, and in the popular suburbs, there are plenty of black and yellow cabs available, called kaali-peeli (black-yellow). However, these drivers can be temperamental and not always go where you would like to. Take these if you can’t get or wait for an Uber.
  • Tip: Drivers in Mumbai are by and large quite honest. However, always make sure to go by the meter when traveling by rickshaws or kaali-peeli.
  • Tip: Try and avoid the blue “Cool cabs.” These guys are known to overcharge tourists.
  • If you have nerves of steel and feeling adventurous, try traveling in the local trains (or just locals). They are the best way to beat the traffic, but are not for everyone. Make sure you have a local friend to guide you along the first time you go on these. 

Where To Go & Why


  • South Bombay, with its gorgeous architectural treasures and rich old-city atmosphere, is steeped in history and a must visit area of Bombay. Feel free to meander around it’s tree-canopied streets, sea-front promenades, shop-lined streets.
  • Marine Drive. The longest sea-facing promenade in Mumbai. NCPA, on the southern end, has art galleries, performances, and concerts. Witness spectacular sunsets in the evenings. Enjoy Queen’s Necklace from the rooftop restaurants. #walks #sunsets #rooftops #promenade
  • Fort. The original heart of the old city. Amazing architecture, art galleries, and delightful street corners and nooks. Don’t miss out on Victoria Terminus, Kalaghoda, Fountain, Bombay Stock Exchange. #oldcity #architecture #photo-op #art #walks

All Things Touristy

  • Gateway of India, Colaba Causeway. 
  • Elephanta Island’s 5th century rock-cut caves are a day trip jaunt. Sea ferries start from the Gateway of India
  • Bademiya, street food in Colaba
  • Marine Drive and Chowpatty beach
  • Haji Ali Dargah, Worli
  • Dhobi Ghat, the open air laundromat, at Mahalaxmi
  • Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus), Fort
  • Siddhivinayak Temple, Dadar
  • Bandra-Worli Sea Link bridge, Bandra and Worli
  • Worli Sea Face Promenade
  • Bandstand and Carter Road Promenade, Bandra
  • ISKON Temple, Juhu
  • Kanheri rock-cut caves in Sanjay Gandhi National Park (north of Powai)
  • Tours: Bollywood Film Studios, Walking Tours, Bike Tours, Street Food Tours, Dharavi Slum Tours (yes!) and more. Check Viator.com for guided tours in the city.

What’s Happening in Town

Mumbai is a sprawling metropolis that never sleeps. There is always something to do. Concerts, art exhibitions, theatre, stand-up comedy, flea markets and pop-ups, festivals, sports and more. 

Trendiest Neighborhoods and places:
  • Bandra West and Khar West
  • Areas: Linking Road, Pali Hill, Hill Road
  • Breakfast: Suzette Creperie. 
  • Pubs: Doolally, The Den, Bonobo, Monkey Bar, Irish House, Khar Social
  • BKC